If you’ve ever been to Athens, you’ll probably have spent your time within a 3 mile radius known as the centre stretching out from Syntagma Square. You’ll have visited the Acropolis, strolled the streets of Plaka, visited the countless museums, admired the view from Lycabettus Hill and sampled some of the outstanding cuisine ranging from simple neighbourhood tavernas in Kypseli, Pangrati and Petralona to the more upmarket restaurants in Psiri, Gazi and Kolonaki. But is that all?

Is there a way to break free from the hustle and bustle of the concrete jungle and the pollution and noise of the city? Is it possible to experience some of the outstanding beauty that people associate with Greece within the urban framework of a capital city of 4.5 million people. There is indeed! And it’s known as the Athenian Riviera.

Athenian Riviera
LIFESTYLE

Let’s explore!

If you drive south, in just 10 minutes, you’ll reach the sea. You can’t miss it! You will be taken aback by the expanse of blue and wide open space in front of you. You have arrived at the start of what is now known as the Athenian Riviera. From there, the views and landscape just get better and better the further out you go. The road hugs the coast for 60 odd kilometres all the way down to Cape Sounion. This is one of the most scenic drives in the world. As you make your way past the old Athens airport at Hellinikon, and on to the exclusive and picturesque suburbs of Glyfada, Voula, Vouliagmeni and Varkiza, you’ll notice dramatic changes. You’ll see lots of wide open spaces with colourful gardens and vistas with panoramic views of the Saronic Gulf. From there, the Athenian Riviera continues along the stretch of road between Varkiza and Sounion and the scenic views are nothing less than stunning.

There is a scattering of seaside towns, hamlets and summer homes with lots of stunning scenery. You’ll find coves, secluded beaches, hillsides, cliffs and what any traveller would find reminiscent of a Greek island holiday. It’s a sensory flooding experience. The vibrant colours will clear the cobwebs of any urban dweller looking for some escape from the hustle and bustle of the city and challenge the impressions of a first-time observer with preconceived ideas of what this part of Greece could possibly have to offer.

Back in 1980, when I first settled in Greece, circumstance brought me to the suburb of Voula. Then, it was a scattering of summer homes occupied by Athenians in summer with just a few shops, and one supermarket which meant that any serious shopping had to be done in downtown Athens. The area around Voula and Glyfada has now developed into a major commercial centre with world-class shopping, designer stores and boutiques that can cover the needs of the most fastidious of shoppers. Many investors have taken advantage of the massive regeneration project of € 8 bn to be carried out at the site of the old airport which is about to become a world class Metropolitan Park and the largest urban regeneration project in Europe. It is attracting massive foreign investment from all over the world including those in search of the Greek Golden Visa.

But it’s not the shopping that keeps me here or the investment. Far from it. Despite the development projects that have already taken place along with a massive population increase, the Athenian Riviera has still retained much of its charm.

Let’s keep fit!

If you love exercise, then this is the place to be. You can take advantage of the massive expanse of coastline where you can walk, jog or cycle for miles on end. Swimming is just down the road either at a public beach or at one of the many beach cubs in the area. There are several tennis clubs including the one which coached Stefanos Tsitsipas, a local to these parts. With 300 days of sunshine a year it’s somewhat odd if your sporting pursuits are dashed by the rain or cold. But if they are, there are countless gyms around for the more passionately inclined with the most advanced state of the art equipment to keep you in shape from any tempting culinary delicacies you may have indulged in.

And there’s even a golf course in Glyfada!

But that’s not all. Mount Hymettus is literally at your doorstep. Head up the mountain and past the houses and you’ll arrive at a wilderness with incredible vistas of the city and coastline. You can follow footpaths, trek, go climbing, pick wild flowers and if you explore the mountain you’ll come across hidden caves and underground passages where you’ll see stalactites and stalagmites many thousands of years old, still undisturbed by the passing of time. But please do not attempt to do this without the help of an expert.

Let’s chill!

For those looking for less energetic pursuits, the southern suburbs of the Athenian Riviera are a wonderful place to sit and chill. There are cafeterias, tavernas and restaurants galore! Both in the shopping areas and dotted all along the coast. You can watch the world go by with the Saronic Gulf as your backdrop. Sip coffee, enjoy a glass of ouzo, or settle down to a meal of seafood while you chart the progress of the full moon as it makes its way across the sky with its dazzling reflection lighting up the water. All in full view of your table and a mere 30 minute drive from the centre of the city.

Life goes on all year round

At this point, I should mention that unlike many of the islands and popular tourist destinations, life goes on in the Athenian Riviera all year round. There is a tendency on the islands for everything to shut down from November to March. This is because their economies run parallel with the tourist season.Many islanders head back to the city to be with their extended families, carry out their annual medical check-ups and it can be quite disconcerting to have to adapt to these dramatic changes that are regulated by the seasonal migration of people. Life in winter can be isolating if you lose your social networks for several months on end. In contrast, life in and around the Athenian Riviera continues as the demand for hospitality, facilities and amenities is supplied by the local populace who live there permanently all-year-round. Restaurants, cafeterias, bars and clubs don’t close in winter as there is an ongoing demand for them from Athenians who are always up for an excuse to head out to the coast for an excursion or a fun evening out. In short, the Athenian Riviera makes for an all-year-round authentic experience of life without seasonal changes of the summer holiday resorts.

Transport Links

If you want to get into Athens, there are a variety of options. You can catch the bus or tram straight into the city. There is also the Sounion bus if you’d like to explore beyond the suburbs and experience one of the most scenic coastlines in the world. Public transport also serves Piraeus and there’s an express bus to the airport. From the airport, you have direct access to all the main islands and cities in Greece as well as an international network connecting the city to Europe, Africa, North America and South-East Asia.

Facilities and amenities

As with most urban centres, there is a wide range of facilities and amenities at your doorstep, here on the Athenian Riviera. There are clubs you can join, some organised by the municipalities and some private. They cover the main sports and are accessible to all and especially children. There are also clubs for sailing, trekking, photography and other children’s activities. Furthermore, Glyfada and Voula are hubs for professional services. Many doctors have their surgeries there. In recent years other professionals such as lawyers, engineers, notaries and insurance companies have established themselves in the area. Strict town planning regulations mean that all the buildings must make provision for a certain percentage of green space and gardens around the buildings and they must all provide secure parking. There is also a public hospital in Voula staffed with some of the best doctors and consultants in Greece. In addition there are marinas in Glyfada and Vouliagmeni for the mooring of boats.

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The Athenian Riviera is still one of the best kept secrets of the city. If, like me, you decide to make it your home, you can have the best of both worlds. You’ll have the opportunity to experience the wonderful natural surroundings of the area, enjoy the island climate of Attica, the very accessible outdoor life, and world class shopping in a cosmopolitan environment all within easy reach of the centre of the city.